Saturday, 7 September 2013

Lawford

Having fallen in love at Wrabness I fell in lust at St Mary which shouldn't be possible. A brick and flint tower should be a mess, it isn't, a half rendered half napped flint nave and chancel should be a mess, they are but they aren't, the location is probably Essex at its best and, oddly, although the interior has been restored to within an inch of its life it's still lovely.

The pews have been stripped out and replaced by ugly 1970s chairs, the alabaster Victorian reredos with gauche (and frankly rubbish) statues sits comfortably with a modern window and a fantastic sedilla. It's a hodgepodge of a church mixing the good with the bad and the ugly but was, without doubt, the church of the day.

ST MARY. The early C14 chancel is one of the most splendid monuments of its date in the county. It is four bays long, divided by buttresses into two pairs of two. The buttresses between and the diagonal buttresses at the E end have niches, no doubt for statuettes, a preparation for the show to come. The large N and S windows of three lights have eight different tracery patterns of which at least five are quite unusual and must probably be credited to the imagination of this particular master mason. The E window is unfortunately renewed, and the reredos underneath it (by C. F. Hayward, 1884) by trying to outdo the magnificence of the medieval stonework, in alabaster and naturalistic carving is another blemish. It needed all the Victorian self-confidence not to restrain oneself in the presence of so much ornamental carving as the interior of the chancel displays. The windows are shafted and up the voussoirs rim thick bands of bossy foliage. Between the pairs is a buttress outside, and inside a narrow blank arch with a tall concave-sided gable flanked by thin buttresses. In the third window from the W on the N side one detects owls in the leaves, on the S side squirrels. Moreover the easternmost N window has instead of foliage two chains of little men. They dance, wrestle, play musical instruments, hold each other by their feet. It is all full of indomitable exuberance. On the S side the priest’s door, Sedilia and Piscina make a similar display, five ogee arches separated by triple-shafts, the front part of which is square and diapered, while the side parts are the usual demi-shafts. The spandrels again are full of figures, their heads broken off by vandals. Some are angels making music on the portable organ, psaltery, gittern, organistrum (hurdy-gurdy) and harp. As for the rest of the church, nave, S porch, and W tower are also C14, but seem in their details (especially the nave S windows) later than the chancel. The S porch has on the sides the remains of tracery. The W tower is much repaired in brick. The tower arch is early C16 brick. The N arcade dates from 1826, the chancel arch from 1853. In the N aisle an early C19 wooden gallery, on cast iron shafts. - FONT. C18 on baluster stem. - STAINED GLASS. Minor fragments of tabernacles and leaves in the chancel windows, in situ. The glass in the E window must be c. 1850, and if the REREDOS (see above) errs on the side of showiness, this glass errs on the side of humility. - MONUMENT. Edward Waldegrave d. 1584, and wife, with the usual kneeling figures facing each other.

East window (1)

Sedilla (SE1)

Napped flint

LAWFORD. A deep valley divides its roadside cottages from those remote on the hill where the church stands above the gleaming waters of the Stour. By the gateway of the church is the gateway of the park of Lawford Hall, a timbered house of Armada days, with oak mullioned windows in its wings and 16th century roundels in its windows. One of the roundels has a delightful figure of St Quirinus in armour and another has St Richard of Chichester in his cope. Standing by great lime trees and ivy covered elms, the 15th century church tower looks venerable. The timbered porch has stood 600 years with a face looking down from the middle of the roof.

It is the white ensign that meets our eyes as we come in, a thrilling one, for it flew at the battle of Jutland on the destroyer Abdiel. The village peace memorial has these fine words:

When the Almighty shook the nations and scattered kings, these Lawford men gave their lives for freedom and justice.

The chancel is famous hereabouts for the marvellous detail of its delicately carved stonework, all the work of a 14th century craftsman. Each of its eight side windows is beautiful with tracery, no two alike, and some of them have fragments of old glass. Above these windows are richly carved arcades with owls and an amazing chain of quaint figures performing a vigorous Morris Dance, some holding each other by the leg or the hair, some playing musical instruments, some with flutes or birds or squirrels. There is a superb sedilia below the windows, ending in a priest’s doorway opening out behind a buttress. The delicate carving below the curves of the arches is magnificent, and, though battered by time, still holds us by its beauty, with tiny figures in the spandrels, crowned heads, and musicians above the priest’s door.

In an arched recess kneels Edward Waldegrave and his wife Joan, both as they were in the days before the Armada; he died when Lawford Hall was new. On a tablet we are told that Dean Merivale was rector here for over 20 years last century; he is remembered by two sorts of people - by sportsmen because he rowed in the first university boat race, and by scholars because he wrote a famous history of the Roman Empire.

Friday, 6 September 2013

Mistley - SS Mary & Michael

To me the exterior is Victorian church building at its worst and very nearly made me write it off as a no hoper but when I ventured inside I was won over by the sheer exuberant vulgarity - as I've said before I'm worried that Victoriana bad taste is luring me to the dark side.

The font is hideous, the glass execrable, the pomp and circumstance laughable, the pulpit ludicrous, the rood screen tacky, the organ quite impressive but as a whole it's all really rather nice in a sort of spine juddering way.

Furnishings wise it's somewhat dull but does have very well maintained conjoined CWGC headstones to Walter and Stanley Sargent, who died in 1916 & 1920 respectively (I assume they're brothers) which I found incredibly moving, a memorial from the old church, erected in 1748, for Thomas Osmond who was a protestant martyr burnt at the stake under Mary in June 1555 and a modern day CWGC headstone which always makes you stop and think.

ST MARY 1870-1, by Wadmore & Baker (GR). The style is dependent on Scott. SW steeple with spire; apse; geometrical tracery. - PLATE. C17 Cup.

Font

Pulpit

Rood screen

MISTLEY. It has two ruined churches and a new one, and it has seen trade on the Stour draw its people down from the hill to the banks of the river. One of the ruins is a fragment of a medieval church, the porch alone remaining. Built about 1500, it has a moulded plinth inlaid with panels of flint, and the buttresses and the doorway have much beauty in them. The other ruin is of a 18th century church, forlorn twin towers down in the town. There are memories of the 18th century church in the new one, a handsome place in the park with a spire 140 feet high. Its pleasant interior has been enriched by a carved organ case from Worcester Cathedral and a beautiful window of the Last Judgement.

On the walls is a tablet in memory of Richard Rigby, a notorious politician who was Paymaster-General in the corrupt days of the taxation which lost America for the flag. It is said that he was no better than he should have been, and he is remembered because he raised his voice against the public funeral of Chatham, and because when he died in 1788 he was found to have amassed about half a million of money out of his public services.

Mistley - St Mary

Two free-standing towers are all that remain of a church built in 1735 and remodelled to the designs of Robert Adam in about 1776. This was part of an unsuccessful building scheme aimed at turning Mistley into a fashionable spa, and the nave of St Mary was demolished in 1870 (when the much larger SS Mary & Michael was built) leaving Robert Adam's matching towers like a pair of pepper pots stranded on their own. I found them impressive but the church must have been peculiar when intact.

As an aside St Mary is one of only two English churches designed by Adam (although he did do the interior of St Mary at Croome Park), the other being St Andrew at Gunton Hall in Norfolk which is now in the care of the CCT as noted by Simon Knott here.

As a further aside of the six churches he was either involved in or designed - Cumnock in Ayshire, St George's Chapel in Edinburgh, St Mary in Mistley have been demolished or partially demolished, St Mary, Croome Park and St Andrew, Gunton Hall are in the care of the CCT and Yester Chapel in Lothian is redundant, status unknown.

Naturally the towers are haunted and exhaustive research can be found here although, I'm afraid, the results are slightly inconclusive.

ST MARY. This new church (see Mee below) was consecrated in 1735. It was a plain parallelogram of brick and would not be worth special attention here, if it had not been radically changed by Richard Rigby in connexion with his grander plans. He began by altering Mistley Hall (no longer extant) which had been built by his father, made the grounds picturesque in the fashionable landscape style, built Gothic and Chinese temples, bridges and so on, and then called in Robert Adam, apparently in 1774. He was to design a bagno, that is a salt water bath by the river, the other side of the malting office. Drawings for this exist, but it was never carried out. Next came the church. This was taken in hand in 1776. What Robert Adam did, was to add a square tower at the N end and another at the S (ritual E) end, and porticoes with two pairs of Tuscan columns each at the two long sides. The result was extremely original and far from religious-looking. The towers were adorned with free-standing Tuscan columns, each with a piece of projecting entablature on top, as if they were angle buttresses gone classical. Above the entablature was a square storey with four pediments, and then a slim circular drum with attached Ionic columns and a crowning dome. The duplication of the towers so far distant from each other was not aesthetically wholly successful. The intervening nave prevented them from being seen as one, and today that is even more difficult, since the two towers alone survive. The nave has been pulled down, and the portico columns have been re-used to continue the motif of the buttressing by columns on the sides where formerly the nave stood. This buttressing motif, even if derived from Roman precedent, is handled very daringly and no doubt impressed Sir John Soane a great deal. The pulling down of the nave was connected with the building of yet another church.

St Mary (1)

MISTLEY. It has two ruined churches and a new one, and it has seen trade on the Stour draw its people down from the hill to the banks of the river. One of the ruins is a fragment of a medieval church, the porch alone remaining. Built about 1500, it has a moulded plinth inlaid with panels of flint, and the buttresses and the doorway have much beauty in them. The other ruin is of a 18th century church, forlorn twin towers down in the town. There are memories of the 18th century church in the new one, a handsome place in the park with a spire 140 feet high. Its pleasant interior has been enriched by a carved organ case from Worcester Cathedral and a beautiful window of the Last Judgement.

On the walls is a tablet in memory of Richard Rigby, a notorious politician who was Paymaster-General in the corrupt days of the taxation which lost America for the flag. It is said that he was no better than he should have been, and he is remembered because he raised his voice against the public funeral of Chatham, and because when he died in 1788 he was found to have amassed about half a million of money out of his public services.

Bradfield

Despite some harsh rendering St Lawrence is an attractive church with Victorian added transepts which are actually rather sympathetic. Inside there is a good brass, a curious pulpit and some quality glass - I liked  this a lot.

ST LAWRENCE. C13 W tower, see the lancet openings with later diagonal buttresses. C13 chancel see the double piscina with dogtooth decoration. C13 nave, see the renewed paired lancet windows. C19 transepts. The whole exterior unfortunately cemented. - FONT. Octagonal, of Purbeck marble, C13, with two shallow blank pointed arches on each side of the bowl. - PULPIT. Made up of odd pieces, C16 and C17, one being a relief of the Crucifixion. - HELM. C16, in the chancel. - PLATE. C17 Cup. - MONUMENTS. Brass to Joane Risbye d. 1598, the figure about three feet tall. - Elizabeth Agassiz, by Chantrey, undated, with kneeling, mourning female figure.

Joan Rysbye 1598 (1)

Nave window (2)

Pulpit (1)

BRADFIELD. The dormer windows of its thatched cottages have peeps of the River Stour as it pours itself into the sea. For 600 years and more a bell in the tower has been summoning the people of the cottages to the 13th century church, ringing out its merry message, “I am cock of this flock.” The bell is centuries older than the tower, which was set up in the 16th century, its cheerful builders giving each of its four faces a row of seven jovial heads.

St George in brilliant enamel greets us as we come through the 14th century doorway, and a glowing transept window tells the story of the first Easter morning. The 18th century pulpit has earlier carving fixed on it. In the chancel is the portrait in brass of Joan Rysbye, shown in the grand dress she wore in the days of the Armada; and there is a brass tablet to Elizabeth Grimstone, who lived at the handsome moated house a mile away, Bradfield Hall. One of its wings is 400 years old. Here was born Sir Harbottle Grimstone, who tried the judges who tried the King. Born under Queen Elizabeth, he lived through the dramatic reigns of the Stuarts to within a few years of the flight of the last of them. In Parliament he stoutly championed popular rights, helped to frame the Grand Remonstrance to impeach Archbishop Laud, and to vindicate the privileges of the House when Charles sought to arrest the Five Members. He knelt to Charles, imploring him to make peace with his people, and when that failed he left the country after the execution of the king, remaining abroad for several years.  Returning to Parliament, he was elected Speaker in 1660 and was sent to Holland to recall Charles the Second, to whom he delivered the official speech of welcome in Parliament. A kindly, hospitable man, charitable to the poor, and tolerant in religion, he sleeps in St Michael’s Church, St Albans.

Simon K -

Open. This church is always open in daylight hours. The best church of the day. A big cruciform church with a western tower, looking ruggedly Norman but probably rebuilt in the 14th century.

You enter through a modern extension, very reminiscent of Whittlesford in Cambridgeshire. The church is full of light and full of delights, excellent windows by Rosemary Rutherford, Edward Burne-Jones and John Hardman. Full of interest, and in a joint parish with Mistley, which is also open every day, of course.

I need to go back because I messed up the exteriors, thinking I had autofocus locked on when I hadn't, but on this occasion I pumped up my rapidly deflating rear tyre and limped back to Manningtree station, past the towers of John Nash's lost Mistley church, and was home in time for tea.

Flickr.

Wrabness

In many ways All Saints was my favourite church of the day not so much for its fabric or contents but because of the stunning location overlooking the Stour and the fact that it was being used as a cafe. The congregation members running the cafe were very welcoming and the church is kept open daily - after Great Oakley and Wix this definitely helped put it into my favourites.

ALL SAINTS. The point to observe is the bell-tower, if such it can be called. It is a one-storeyed weather boarded little shed like a village lock-up, quite independent of the church. The date may be C17 or C18. The church consists of nave and lower chancel. N doorway Norman. S doorway C15, pretty, with fleurons and hung-up shields in the voussoirs. The nave has a hammerbeam roof, not a frequent feature in Essex. - FONT. Octagonal, Perp with deliberately defaced figures of the Evangelists and their symbols.

Bellcote

Font

WRABNESS. It pushes itself out into the estuary of the Stour and has long views of Suffolk across the water. It has ancient thatched barns, a timbered cottage of Stuart days, and a hall with a wing 600 years old. As it has no tower the bell which summons the village to prayer hangs in a wooden turret in the churchyard. We come to the church by a porch with a 700-year-old coffin lid in the wall, through a doorway carved with flowers and shields in the 15th century. There are Norman stones above the door and facing us as we enter is a Norman doorway used no more. The font is 500 years old and has saints sitting on the bowl, with angels supporting.

Simon K -

High on a ridge overlooking the Stour, with a fine view of the Royal Hospital School at Holbrook on the north bank, is All Saints church.

Open. A delightful little country church, a little flint building that lost its tower in the 18th century, with the result that it has a bell cage in the churchyard.

This church is open every day says the notice. The interior is very bright, the result of a 1990s restoration which gave it a wooden floor and modern chairs - the effect is a bit like that at Marks Tey, and almost as successful, although here the chancel has been left pretty much as it was after the 19th Century restoration.

A sign asked visitors to make themselves a cup of tea or coffee and have a biscuit. Thoroughly welcoming, a pleasure to come to just as I was getting tired.

I stayed longer than intended, and along the narrow road back to the Harwich to Manningtree road I noticed a softness in my rear tyre - my first puncture on this bike, which I've had for nearly two years.

Time to get these Contis replaced, I fear. Stopping to pump it up, I limped on into Bradfield St Lawrence.

Wix

St Mary the Virgin has only one feature of any interest and that is an old arcade in the north around which the present church was built. Sadly the churchyard is very neglected and seedlings have been allowed to grow untrammelled all over the place and the arcade is barely visible. Like nearby Great Oakley this felt very neglected and unloved and was locked with no keyholder listed but I can't believe the interior would be any better than the exterior.

ST MARY. Nave and lower chancel with polygonal apse. They now look mostly C18 and undistinguished. But in the nave wall, on the N side, is a blocked former N arcade of the C13, with octagonal piers.

St Mary the Virgin (4)

Cracked

WIX. It lines the road from Colchester to Harwich, and has a 17th century inn. Not far away stands an Elizabethan house with a three-storeyed porch under a crow-stepped gable; it is on the site of a priory founded in the reign of Henry the First and abolished by Cardinal Wolsey. The church is by the old house, ivy climbing its walls toward the little turret which holds a small bell. We found a much bigger bell, itself covered with ivy, hanging in a detached wooden turret in the middle of the great churchyard. The church has been made smaller, for we can see from the outside a bricked-up arcade with capitals moulded 700 years ago.

Flickr.

Great Oakley

All Saints was locked with no keyholder listed per se but numbers given for contacting for enquiries about the church and had a run down somewhat seedy air to it - it felt like it was dying of neglect and I don't think I missed much inside judging from the outside and churchyard.

ALL SAINTS. C18 W tower with weatherboarded upper stage and pyramid roof. Long aisleless nave of the C12 (N wall: one Norman window and traces of a second, besides a mid C16 brick window of three lights), and long, lower early C14 chancel. The chancel E window however is Early Perp - of four lights with panel tracery. The chancel arch also is late C14 in style. Inside the chancel a charming small N doorway with figures of angels in jambs and voussoirs. - FONT. Plain C12, of Purbeck marble, on five shafts.

All Saints (2)

Wreath

GREAT OAKLEY. With a few houses 300 or 400 years old, it lies two miles west of Hamble Water, while the narrow church stands farther inland and is reached by an elm-lined valley road running by Ramsey Brook. Two sycamores guard the churchyard gate and oaks and chestnuts grow in profusion. A blocked Norman window above a 14th century doorway tells us how long a church has been here; the square font with 20 round-headed panels has been in use all through the church’s history. Up in the chancel is a doorway of 1500 now closed for ever, enriched with carvings of angels, crowns, and heads. The east window is filled with portraits of saints and angels, and strikes a delightful colour note seen through the pointed chancel arch.

Simon K -

I came down from the ridge, and after a couple of miles came to the village of Great Oakley, a handsome place with Georgian houses and a square, though spolied a little by being on the Harwich to Clacton main road. Beyond it, the road divides, and beyond woods on a bluff looking out over open countryside is the parish church.

Locked, though with a keyholder notice of sorts. The setting is stunningly lovely. The ground falls away rapidly immediately to the west of the weatherboarded tower, and the headstones below it have never been removed or reset by lawnmower enthusiasts. In short, it looks like an illustration from an 18th Century book of etchings of country churches. I almost expected to see a yokel in a smock smoking a clay pipe and sitting on a tree stump.

James Bettley in the revised Pevsner implies that the inside is nothing compared with the exterior, and the curious keyholder notice said anyone wishing to discuss matters concerning the Church should ring... it gave three numbers. I thought about ringing them in turn and posing a serious of abstruse puzzlers about heresies in the fifth century, but thought better of it and cycled on through increasingly narrow and lovely lanes through Moze to Beaumont.